Following Don Quixote to Córdoba

What had the makings of a magnificent plan in pursuit of Mariano Zamorano's swordmaking shop and La Ruta de Don Quixote and his battle with the giant windmills, ironically became the very word inspired by Quixote's adventures: Quixotic - The impractical pursuit of idealistic goals.

When we finally returned to Spain to pick up our rental car, we knew our idealistic schedule might need revamping. The small car they had ready for us may have required tying one child to the top of the car rather than in the seat. So we waited...and waited...for a mini-van to show up for our large crew.

For two years, since Covid began, we have been trying to visit this particular swordmaking workshop. A 5th generation (espadero) swordmaker, Mariano Zamorano and Julio, his protégé, are the last swordmakers that do it all by hand (a mano).

Here is a link to learn more about Mariano.

https://elpais.com/elpais/2019/04/18/trans_iberian/1555610569_707367.html

Initially stationed in Toledo, they moved to Camuñas due to Covid regulations. It so happened that Camuñas was on our route to Córdoba so, months ago, we arranged to meet him at 11:00am that morning, thinking we had plenty of time to get there. Meanwhile, after a late start with the car, the google map link we were given led us to a completely different town so we backtracked and forward tracked and...ugh. At least the scenery was nice.

We called Julio and hoped we could still see him, quickly flip-flopped plans, and stopped to see where Don Quixote's famous "battle" with the giant windmills took place.

After a remarkably and surprisingly lovely "picnic" on a bench next to a grocery store parking lot, we finally made it to Camuñas when my GPS stopped working. It was now 3pm, a mere 4 hours late to our intended meeting and we had no idea where to go. Dead stopped. Suddenly, as if by magic, 20 feet ahead of us was Calle Norte, our destination, and an open shop door. Julio!

Julio is exactly what you imagine a master swordmaker to look like. Short and stocky, large calloused hands - and a bit like the images of Hephaestus in the kid's Greek mythology books. Yet, he is chatty and passionate about his work. He creates exquisite custom orders as well as sword repairs from antique collectors, one of which we were able to hold hailed from the 1700s.

We booked it to Córdoba and the stables of King Filipe II for an 8pm Horse and Flamenco Show. King Filipe established the royal stud breed of Spanish horse; the Andalusian, by royal decree in 1567.

Set in the courtyard and surrounded by ancient stone walls, orange trees, and a large rectangular pit of raked dirt, the horses and their riders performed the formal artistry of "dressage." I never knew what the term "dressage" meant until this show. It is described as ”the highest expression of horse training where horse and rider are expected to perform from memory a series of predetermined movements.” Horse and rider performed routines such as the "Pas de Deux" with grace and elegance. Unfortunately, we were not allowed to take photos during the show and my camera was chomping at the bit (pun intended)!

We keep the kids moving here! Up and out the next morning to see the glorious Mezquita Mosque-Cathedral of Córdoba.

It is history itself! First a Visigoth basilica in the mid 6th Century before being built as a Mosque in 768 where it proceeded to enjoy a long period of social, political, and cultural splendor. Then in 1236, Córdoba was conquered by King Ferdinand III during the Reconquista and a Cathedral was plopped right into the center of the Mosque.

My Aunt Stef and Uncle Bob, from Chicago, happened to be in Córdoba literally hours before we arrived. Sadly, there was no way for them to delay their tour in order for us to meet up so I suggested she leave us a "love note" somewhere near the Mezquita. After a 20 minute scavenger hunt with only a picture to give us a clue, we found it tucked into a column at the entrance to the city. I felt I had seen them in spirit!

Off to Sevilla where we will spend a full week!