Nerja's Many Shades of Blue

If I could be a "leisure professional" Nerja would be the place to do it. With a magnificent rocky coastline, a multitude of beaches to choose from, and an ever-present breeze that masks the true strength of the sun, it is paradise. Culturally, Nerja is not a Spanish powerhouse. It lacks the museums, archeological wonders, and historical presence that I've grown to love about Spain. However, for an amateur photographer with a slew of kids who like water and sand, it's a feast for the eyes...and every other sense. Nerja's main plaza is built on a natural rock promenade that juts out into the Mediterranean called, "El Balcón de Europa" (Europe's Balcony). Lined with palm trees, El Balcón has lots of open space to run, chat and laugh with King Alfonso XII, while staring, jaw-dropped, at the dramatic views.

Back at our newest apartment right in the center of town, we made time every day to play in the "warm tub" on the terrace. Because who wants a "hot tub" in the summer in Spain? The kids remarked, "This is 'mom-approved' temperature," since I was able to slip right in, no shrieking entry required. This tub was the size of a small pool, with a jet that could take your bathing suit right off if you weren't careful (and sometimes even if you were). Seriously, you could use this thing as a lap pool, swimming your most powerful freestyle while STILL remaining in the same place. The size allowed the kids to play full-fledged games in the water each afternoon while Kip and I watched on in case we lost Onora in the "Class 4" rapids.

Educationally, for the kids, it was a big week. With the school year quickly coming to a close, they spent much of their time finishing final papers, creating websites for school projects, and preparing their exam study guides. Throughout the spring, the dedication, organization, and communication were remarkable while still being able to fully experience this cultural immersion. I couldn't be more proud of them. But, I'm sure it's exhausting.

While the kids were hard at work, I was unequivocally NOT. Poor saps. Instead, I spent much of my mornings walking while catching up via What's App with friends at home. Each new turn in this white-washed village provided yet another photo opportunity which only made me walk farther each day. By the end of the week, I had an internal map of Nerja seared into my brain and knew my way around like a local. On our last day, we drove to Burriana Beach, and instinctively I instructed Kip how to get there without consulting the GPS. He looked over and questioned, "How do you know?" I responded, with some pride, "I told you I've walked quite a bit."

Early one afternoon, we took advantage of the gorgeous sunshine and walked to Playa El Chorrillo to swim around the rocks in the calm water. The water, a shocking 65 degrees, was most likely cold enough to be considered "cryotherapy," instantly removing all bodily inflammation upon contact. Yet, the clarity of the water was alluring enough to endure the chill as long as you continued moving. I joked that had I seen a fish, I could have immediately determined its gender through the crystal clear water. (If I were a marine biologist, that is.)

The older boys took a swim past the beach and around the rocks to a smaller cove "next door" while the rest of us met them on foot through the tunnels and caves. What a difference a day makes! The following day those same caves were impassable with churning waves and frothing sea.

Returning to land, Liam and Quinn's arms were like jelly from the cold and the exertion. Maybe we should focus more on PE class next week?

We walked home, ready to enjoy another night in the "warm tub" and the older two settled down for some study time and a chance for Liam to connect with friends back home via Zoom. Love it or hate it, technology (when used properly) really is such a beautiful thing.

Onora has been on a mission to find her perfect souvenir on this trip and she's waited until now to make her decision. Since our flamenco classes in Sevilla, she has become enthralled with the style of this gypsy art. She has searched and searched. In a clear example of 'knowing oneself' she professed at one point, "If I want a flamenco doll, it has to be plastic because otherwise, I KNOW I'll break it." Instead, she did the next best thing. She became 'the flamenco dancer.' I don't think I've ever seen her more excited about anything.

In fact, she paraded for two days straight through the town of Nerja in her flamenco attire (velcro tennis shoes not included), hands on her hips, posing and swishing through town like the belle of the 'tablao,' heading to her very own performance. This is clearly a case where the apple fell VERY far from the tree. As a kid, you couldn't have persuaded me, for all the matchbox cars in the world, to wear a dress like that!

She even wore it to dinner at the fabulous Namaste Indian/Nepalese restaurant where steaming and sizzling plates of tandoori, tikka masala, biryani, samosas, pakoras, kebabs, and naan crowded our table. After having Spanish food almost exclusively since March, Indian was a welcomed sight and the kids devoured it, further expanding their palates and experiencing the flavorful foods of other cultures. Liam said, "I like this even more than Moroccan food." If you'd seen him eat in Morocco, you'd know that's quite a statement.

We saved the ultimate experience for our last day: Kayaking along the shores and caves of the Nerja coast with Sevi, our guide. A group of ten kayaks cut through the calm water that just one day before was choppy and turbulent. Kip and I each had the dead weights, Onora and Gaelan. Us, kayaking for two, while the rest of the group all had double paddlers. Well, "Except for the one woman who never touched her paddle," remarked Onora, observantly. My competitive nature led me to paddle harder to keep up with the group, knowing full well that I was going to be sore the next day.

For 2.5 hours, we slalomed through tunnels, around large rocks, inside caves, and through gaps in the rock just big enough for the kayak to fit through. One of those crevices required you to lay down and pull yourself through with your hands, watching the rock above you slip just past your nose. Now, I know what it's like to be buried alive. And, the color of the water...Magical! The turquoise feels more like a potion of sorts, especially as you enter tunnels where the dark of the cave contrasts against the sliver of sunlit water at the edge of the entrance.

As we powered past the 2-hour mark, I let Onora have the controls for a few minutes, fully aware that with her in command as captain of the ship, we were falling farther behind the rest of the kayak flotilla. Five minutes later, I rescued us from paddling in circles and took the reins again. After a couple more playful attempts at giving her some control, she was getting the hang of it but the current was carrying us backward faster than she could pull us in the right direction. By the end of the tour, she commented proudly as she paddled us to shore, "Mom. See, you got a break and I got a break!" Yes, Onora. You got a 2-hour and 23-minute break. Win-Win!

With our car fully packed and ready to leave Nerja, we thanked Sevi, fittingly hopped in the "Alhambra" minivan in our bathing suits, left beautiful Burriana Beach, and set off for our next adventure: Granada.

But, first, a quick stop in the inland village of Frigiliana for a bit of well-deserved ice cream. Being farther from the sea, the ice cream melted at record speed. We wiped our faces and plugged in Calle Molinos 8 on the GPS. Granada, here we come!