Sevilla’s Semana Santa
- Apr 21, 2022
- 6 min read
Updated: Apr 22, 2022
(Caution: Long and winding post ahead)
From our balcony perch, we have the best view in all of Sevilla, particularly for Holy Week, as the cathedral is the central gateway for all of the festivities. Overlooking a pedestrian street, bands of roaming performers and singers serenade the diners below and we get prime seating.
I love that we’ve come from Morocco during the month of Ramadan and only days later experienced Catholic Holy Week (Semana Santa) in Sevilla. Bells ring out in a clattering of sounds in celebration.
What has made this week even more celebratory is having our friends from London (Shannon, Roy, Avery, and Piper) join us for part of the week! It’s been three long years since we’ve seen them but it feels like no time has passed.
In essence, Semana Santa is a week where processions of devoted brotherhoods (cofradías) and penitents (nazarenos) from various churches around Sevilla leave their home church and make their way through the city streets carrying elaborate floats (pasos) with images of Jesus or Mary. Their costume and colors indicate the ties to their particular brotherhood.
The anonymity of the nazarenos‘ costumes, with only holes for their eyes, allows them to repent their sins anonymously while en route.
The processions are sometimes accompanied by brass bands or drums as they follow their specific route through the narrow streets of Sevilla. It’s loud. Ask Onora. (She accompanied me to one before our flamenco dance class).
However, depending on the images depicted on the float, some processions take different tones. For example, those which depict Jesus are often somber and funereal - sometimes silent - while ones with Mary take on a more celebratory air.
Each parade must go through the Sevilla Cathedral to be blessed before returning to their home church. Even the spectators are in full regalia, especially on Holy Thursday. Families, dressed smartly in perfectly cut suits and dresses, stride alongside the Matriarch who wears an all black dress, heels, and a lace mantilla that sits atop her head.
The routes of the processions are sometimes up to 14 hours long and typically begin in the late afternoon, often continuing until 3 or 4 in the morning. From grandparents to children, it is a family affair, despite the late hour. In fact, Shannon and Roy were awakened by pasos and processions at 3am on the morning of Good Friday. I’m not sure that made for such a “good” Friday for them!
Just before the elaborate paso is in view, the air is perfumed with incense and wafting smoke as altar boys swing a thurible in preparation for the paso’s appearance.
Out of the smoke comes a richly carved paso, glittering and shimmering with gold, hundreds of candles, fabric drapes, flowers, and life-sized sculptures of Jesus or Mary, all under a canopy (baldachin). Some sculptures on the floats date back to the 16th century and are being updated regularly.
The paso glides along smoothly. However, hidden from view are the 25-50 men (sack men- named for a piece of cloth they wear on their head) that carry the paso from inside the structure. The only thing visible are the sets of feet that slowly move in unison through the streets while carrying pasos that can weigh up to a ton. Meanwhile an overseer outside the paso guides them all by voice.
Nazarenos pass out candy to the children and small cards with Jesus and Mary‘s image on them. Throughout one procession, an elderly woman next to us held out her hand reverently to collect these cards. Each time she received one, it was kissed fervently, before being tucked away in her handbag.
I love the tradition, the passion, and careful preservation of history that has been passed down through generations. Religious or not, it is a marvel to witness it all and it brings about a whole new respect for the devoted.
Aside from the Semana Santa festivities, we attempted to cover the city and experience all this beautiful place has to offer. One of the most impressive sights is the Plaza de España.
A massive, semicircular building with a canal, fountain, and bridges. It is breathtaking, especially in the small details. Each stairway and bridge spindle is made of exquisite porcelain and topped with an equally impressive finial.
The Plaza de España butts up to Maria Louisa Park, where green parrots flit by in a space that feels more akin to a jungle with its palm and Kapok trees than in the middle of a city in Spain. This is not your typical park. It has islands and secret pathways, bridges, and water features. Everywhere you go, you feel totally secluded and peaceful.
The kids found trees to climb, duck eggs (we think) hidden among the bushes, and tree roots. Shannon even thought to bring Easter candy for an egg hunt on Sunday afternoon.
On Saturday, we had a 10am time at Sevilla's Royal Alcázar. Palaces typically conjure images of a cold and lonely formality. But, Sevilla's Royal Alcázar- well, THIS is a palace I could genuinely live in (well, if they asked me, I'd say "yes"). Warm and colorful, it is a space where the outside meets the inside, seamlessly.
With filigreed detail, vibrant tiled patterns, and scalloped archways that lead to open air courtyards, I'd think I was back in Morocco if I didn't know any better.
And the gardens! They are sprawling! Loud peacock calls in the springtime, and large families of ducks, following their mothers, waddle around. Topiary maze gardens are interspersed with the tallest palm trees you've ever seen, and lots of places to sit and think...if you don't have a gaggle of kids who ask you to look at something constantly. ;)
The peacocks refused to be upstaged by the cute baby ducks and, like a flamenco dancer possessed with unmistakable “duende“ (authenticity and expression), he puffed himself proudly and strutted around. Even from behind, it was a show! What baby ducks?
Let the dancing begin! On Saturday evening, all of the girls went to experience a flamenco dance class at the Museo de Baile Flamenco in what appears to be an old wine cellar. For an hour, our instructor added 8-counts incrementally until we had an entire routine memorized. Onora, my sidekick, was a fast learner especially considering all of the instruction was done in Spanish! She was so proud. She even took to the streets to perform her fancy footwork. It looks a bit more like Riverdance than Flamenco, but, whatever, the girl has spunk.
We met the rest of the crew and went straight from our lesson to a flamenco show complete with 3 dancers, two singers and a guitarist. The stomping and passionate singing left my ears ringing and my heart soaring. It was clear they were having so much fun. No photos allowed, unfortunately, so you’re left with our dance routine. While it pales in comparison to the authentic version, it is quite fun to watch!
And what could be more “Spain” than watching Flamenco? How about watching Real Madrid play Sevilla’s FC fútbol team at home in Sevilla?! Tickets were ridiculously priced so a better option was a sports bar and hamburgers at The Merchant.
We said goodbye to our dear friends and promised another rendezvous on one continent or another soon.
We watched them go and then quickly pivoted to attempt some schoolwork after quite a long hiatus.
However, we might be a wee bit out of practice doing slope and intercept (whatever that is?!) necessitated a break so we took a walk to Las Setas. Formerly known as Metropol Parasol before being dubbed “Las Setas” (the mushrooms), it is the largest wooden structure in the world designed by German Architect, Jürgen Mayer in 2011. You can take the elevators up the five floors and walk the undulating promenade that feels a little like walking the route of a kiddie coaster. But at night is where it really shines…literally.
Alas, My trip wasn't complete just yet but I found what I was looking for in the Plaza de España on our last day: Flamenco Dancers. More specifically, ones that I could photograph. Aha! For 30 minutes, I sat bewitched and gloriously happy. My taste for dance was (temporarily) satisfied and so was my camera. I could now go in peace.
This might be my favorite city and I’m not ready to be leaving this place. Until we meet again, dear Sevilla. Adiós a todo.
Love the dancing! Wish Kip a happy birthday for us this week :)
What could you possibly do to top that experience. Photography was fantastic
Que aventura increible!
Angel Menefee
Wow, well timed! Love the dancing, expect to see that this summer!
Great timing to be in Seville for Holy Week. And the 💃was on point!
Liz