The Sahara Desert
- Apr 12, 2022
- 5 min read
The Sahara dunes loomed ahead of us. They don’t start gradually as one might think. They just rise up from the ground. There is gray dirt and then BAM…there are enormous orange mounds of sand.
We traded our car for two 4x4’s in order to reach our desert camp. Charaf’s car wasn’t going to cut it through the dunes but this little jeep, with its snorkel tailpipe to prevent sand intake, was certainly up for the task. The car shifted and slid through the sand, picking up speed as the driver found dunes to take like a skateboarder on a half pipe.
Gaelan, Onora, and I were in one car and it’s the first time in their lives they’ve gone without seatbelts and yet one of the few times I felt it was absolutely necessary as they were thrown about the car, in fits of hilarity.
We arrived just after 5pm and stopped at a group of white tents placed in a rectangle around a sandy courtyard where red woven rugs lined all pathways that led to the central fixture: A large fire pit. Filigreed lanterns marked the paths and low tables were set around the courtyard with fabric ottomans for seating. We were served a welcome tea and biscuits before being shown to our tent outside the central square. My disappointment at being far from this lovely central space was quickly replaced when I realized that our tents directly faced the large expanse of dunes. Magical.
The tent is unlike any you’ve ever seen. If you don’t like camping, this is not camping. It’s not even glamping. It’s sumptuous. King sized beds, layers of cozy rugs, fully functioning bathrooms, lanterns, and the softest bedding you’ve ever felt.
The kids immediately took off to investigate the sand as the sun got lower in the sky.
It’s a place that looks so desolate from afar yet it is brimming with life. Dainty scarab beetle tracks criss-cross over the dunes like major highways, holes in the sand dug by God knows what (I just try not to think about it), ‘evidence’ of camel caravans, and beetles. The sand itself, cinnamon orange, has the texture of fine granulated sugar mixed with flour, blown into elegant patterns by the wind.
It is incredibly soft - so soft that when climbing a dune, your feet sink quickly. It’s like going “up” a “down” escalator that happens to be underwater. It requires much more energy. However, with all that time in the car, we were not short on THAT!
We wandered the dunes, my camera shutter rapidly firing, and watched the sunset. I truly could not believe my eyes.
Night comes in fast here, a fire is built, and other “campers” came to talk, ask questions and trade stories about their lives before being called to dinner.
In a candlelit dining room we ate heartily. Spicy chickpea soup, chicken tagine, Moroccan salad, and fruit plates.
By the end of dinner, Onora could barely keep her head off the table so we walked through lantern lit pathways, tilting our heads skyward to view the stars as we walked back to our tents. We fell asleep listening to the sound of Berber drumming.
Most people decide to spend one night at the camp but we decided that all that travel necessitated two, especially when you walk out of your tent in the morning with this view.
We had all the following day to explore and relax and we needed to make the most of it as quickly as possible. So much sand, so little time. After breakfast, we promptly headed for the dunes with a sand-board in tow and proceeded to “sloooowwwly” make our way down hills. Ok, so it’s not an extreme sport and the “thrill” of the ride is overshadowed by the trek back up the hill on the underwater escalator after each run.
By 10:00am the temperature was already steadily climbing and by 11:30, it was clearly time to get the kids out of the sun if Onora’s red face was any indication.
After a lovely lunch consisting of olives, tomato salad, chicken skewers, and a refreshing fruit parfait, we all sat under the shade of a thatched roof awning to play cards, feel the breeze and just be present. We laugh a lot and I’m grateful to have all of their senses of humor, good nature and adventurous spirit with us on this trip. They are all up for anything and everything.
As the temperature dropped, we prepared for our camel trek through the dunes for a good vantage point to watch the sunset.
Getting up is a bit disconcerting as the camels must stand on their hind legs first, pitching you forward before righting themselves on all four legs.
A camel ride is like a slow, hip swaying, rhythmic dance. It moves under you and your body has no choice but to follow the camel’s lead.
It’s feet are made for sand as they spread out like large plates with each step, giving more surface area and therefore little sinking.
The littles decided to send their classmates a message from the desert and they couldn’t be any cuter.
Later, as I sat on a blanket with the sun just above the dune, our camels waiting patiently for us while the kids played “ninja” in the sand, I was struck by the beauty and vastness of this earth. This has been on my bucket list for some time and to have finally made it was a moment for me.
Onora fell asleep again at dinner and it’s clear that all the travel, sun, sand, and excitement is a lot. But, she has taken on everything here, wants to try it all, and has the spirit of a true explorer of the world.
I set my alarm for 5:45am and left the tent to see the sunrise on our last morning. Unbelievably, at that time of day, the sand is so cold your feet instantly go numb and begin to ache. Sitting alone on a sand ridge, I watched the sun peek over the mountains at the border of Algeria only 20km away.
Quinn made it out at the last minute, bleary eyed but determined not to miss it.
Each time I stood outside our tent, I wished for a camera that might take a 360 degree snapshot to capture the entirety of the scene. However, no photo will do this place justice simply because it’s not just the view, but the sounds, the air, the heat, and the feel of the sand that makes it what it is. It’s the total immersion and I hope everyone who reads this considers this experience if they can. Goodbye Sahara! We are off to Fes - all 7 hours in one day. Yikes!
I look forward to every post. Fantastic!
liz
Trying to catch up on your adventures. It brings me joy to see your family enjoying this experience. These images are awesome!
This trip will be tough to top! Really wonderful!
These photos were spectacular! The scenery like no other and the colors were joyous!
Just amazing! Love all the photos and your beautiful words!